The Spirit of New Orleans

Source: Speak Up

Language level: Lower intermediate 

Jazz bands playing on the street corners, all night dancing on Bourbon Street, or three hour breakfasts in the sunshine –there are good reasons why New Orleans is called “The Big Easy.” This is a city that prides itself on enjoying life to the full. Arid no hurricane or oil spill is going to stop the music.

THE FRENCH CONNECTION

This easy-going attitude comes from the mix of people who live here. The city was founded by the French in 1718, became part of the Spanish Empire, and briefly passed back into French hands before Napoleon sold it to the United States in 1803. The French and Spanish settlers were joined by African slaves, English speaking Americans, as well as German, Irish and Italian immigrants. The different groups lived close together, and each brought their own musical and culinary traditions.

At the centre of New Orleans life is the French Quarter. The oldest neghbourhood in the city is a place where culture and architecture meet. Sitting on a bending in Mississippi River, the area is above sea level and was relatively untouched by Hurricane Katrina.

ALL THAT JAZZ

The “Quarter” is all about enjoying life, particularly music and food. Bourbon Street is famous for its bars, nightlife and crowds of people. But you explore a little further you’ll find restaurants serving rich portions of Creole and Cajun specialities, while musicians and mime artists perform on the street corners.

Among them are blues and hillbilly bands, but New Orleans is most famous for its jazz in the mid-18^th century slaves would gather on Sundays and dance to traditional African drums. These rhythms combined with European instruments and melodies to form jazz.

LET’S DANCE

Mary Lacoste (see interview), who was born in New Orleans and works there as a tour guide, told us about her favourite places for music: “The Maison Bourbon Jazz Club on the corner of Bourbon and St. Peter’s always have good bands. Half a block always is Preservation Hail, where the really old-timers play. You pay 10 dollars, which goes to charity, and crowd into this room without enough chairs but with a great sound –a little uncomfortable but the most authentic jazz anywhere.”

She also describes how the feel of the city changes as you enter the Quarter: “You cross Can St and suddenly you feel more relaxed, and maybe a little hungry. And then you hear the music on the streets and your toes begin to twitch and tap a bit. It’s hard to keep your dignity and not skip about!

FAT TUESDAY!

There is, however, one time when it’s definitely OK to do a little dancing in the street.  New Orleans’ Mardi Gras parades and parties. It starts soon after Christmas and builds up to Mardi Gras, the day before the start of Lent. The celebrations climax with parades of colourful floats, elaborate costumes, masks, body painting and beads. Even Hurricane Katrina couldn’t stop the festivities. A couple of bars in the French Quarter stayed open throughout and Mardi Gras went ahead just a few months later with food-damaged floats. In a city dependant on tourism. The Quarter and the carnival became important symbols of survival.

CRISTMAS IN NEW ORLEANS

Besides Mardi Gras, another special time to visit New Orleans is Christmas. It is described as a month-long celebration of the season and the senses. “The balconies of the French Quarter are beautifully decorated and there are light displays in City Park. Throughout December historical characters such as Louis Armstrong and Buffalo Bill walk through the Quarter telling stories and traditional Creole “Reveillon Dinners” are served all month. These are free concerts in the St Louis Cathedral and on Christmas Eve bonfires are lit along the Mississippi River.